Bangkok Betty

Friday, December 11, 2009
I'm sure I'm not the only person who dreams of having loads of money to travel the world whenever I feel like it. But with a day job and bills to pay, I have to make the most of my holidays when I can. So when an unexpected trip to Bangkok came up, I was thanking my lucky stars profusely.
The brief - to write about the city from a 'foodie' perspective. I would have preferred a 'check out the latest five star, celebs-ville, hotel launch party' but I wasn't about to be fussy. And looking at the schedule, it wasn't just food markets and exhibitions. There was a decent amount of sight-seeing with some restaurant experiences thrown in. Covering both Bangkok and Pattaya, I wondered how we would cover so much in just five days, but cover it we did, from morning till night and snoozing on the coach in between. Here are just some snippets of the highlights:

The Grand Palace
Swarming with tourists, it wouldn't normally be first on my hit list but it's a bit like going to Rome and not seeing Vatican City. The Grand Palace is a must and its a great way to start your trip as it covers every facet of Bangkok including history, religion, the royal family, and the government, visibly intertwining faith and monarchy.
The Grand Palace is more like a small town with a collection of buildings which are so ornately decorated its almost blinding. You can't actually believe they were built in 1782 as they lookso shiny and new. The statues and serpents that guard each building gives you some insight into the mythical world of Thailand.
But the most important and revered statue of all is the Emerald Green Buddha; encased in its own temple, this small but perfectly formed jade Buddha sits high while Buddhist worshippers and tourists alike come from miles around to pay their respects or simply stare at one of the most famous icons in history.

China Town
Yeah, yeah, I know every city has a China Town but this one is special. Maybe it's the uncountable number of stalls selling anything from wall stickers to leather goods, or the variety of food stalls where you stuff yourself silly (despite the hotel buffet breakfast that morning) or the Alice-in-Wonderland maze like affect that makes up the narrow streets as you dodge tuk-tuks and mopeds delivering goods. Charming, exotic, and the keeper of so many secrets, this labyrinth will take you captive as you try to keep up with the hive of activity around you. Just make sure you don't have a plane to catch that day.

Floating Markets
As well as the various shopping centres (MBK was fantastic) and street stalls, perhaps the most exciting shopping trips are the ones to the floating markets. Interlinked wooden street stalls criss-cross the river selling crafts, clothes and trinkets with long boats meandering though the canals stopping at the wooden banks to serve the shoppers snacks cooked on the boat. A unique sight which highlights the importance of the river for trade even today. The effect is incredible - shopping at Debenhams will never be the same again.

Night-life
A night out in Bangkok will always be an unforgettable experience and while stories regale about some of the more hedonistic pursuits, there's so much more on offer that should be experienced. Eating, whether on the go from one of the food stalls or in one the restaurants will give you the energy you need to keep up with the city. Dining, can be accompanied by traditional performances of music and dance and is a great way to start the night. If you prefer something slightly more modern, a visit to a cabaret show will keep you entertained with the crazy costumes and impersonations. Whatever you choose, make sure you end the night with a ride back to your hotel in a tuk-tuk - a fast and exhilarating experience in itself!
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Being married to an Egyptian, I have a fair understanding of their culture. Not great, but enough to get by when my mother in law visits. I keep learning as I go and continue to hope that I don't make any major faux pas.

What seems central to Egyptian culture (well at least to my husband anyway) is their love of food. No beans of toast for them; its all about a well-prepared spread with multiple dishes. I had first hand experience of this when we were invited to Iftar of an Egyptian family. I swear the table could have featured in BBC Good Food magazine.

I had heard of the stuffed pigeon which is so popular in Egypt but other dishes such as 'fatta' were unknown to me. A mixture of bread, rice and meat, it would be an Atkin dieter's worst nightmare. While I could only manage two spoonfuls of the dish, I happily got through grilled aubergine stuffed with meat and cheese as well as couple of stuffed vine leaves. And of course I had to help myself to the breaded chicken with tomato and mozarella as well as the grilled lamb medallions. Heaving myself from the dining room to the couch, we then moved on to desserts of 'atayef'. Protesting about having no room but with my fork already in hand, these fried pancakes are filled with nuts and dipped in sugar syrup. Not specifically from Egypt but from the Middle East region, you can imagine these being served with afternoon tea in the Ritz.

Coming from a country like the UK where family meals are becoming more and more infrequent, it was a refreshing change to be able to spend a few hours with friends and enjoy good food and good conversation which is not in a restaurant.

Next time though, I'll definitely be investing in some elasticated trousers.....


Turkish treats

Friday, August 14, 2009
A new find in the JBR dining scene is 'Kosebasi' - a Turkish restaurant that gives most of its neighbours a run for its money. Not only is the service great, the staff knowledgable and the food tasty, but it's also good value for money.

Seated in the small restaurant, you can admire the large mosaic with its blue patterns and window seating offers views out on to the beach. The place mat explains the history of the restaurant and the various awards its won as well as listing its website. If none of this interests you, then you can happily look out of the window and people watch as they stroll along the beach front.

For starters, the waiter brings a large tray full of different types of mezze for you to choose at your table. Perfect if you're absolutely starving and can't be bothered to go through the process of choosing and ordering. Served with warm bread, it's the perfect way to read through the menu and decide on your main course. However, if you're not familiar with Turkish food, you may need the server to explain some of the dishes. The kosebasi kebab is grilled spiced lamb and while perhaps on the small side, the pieces were soft and tender. Findik lahmacun (best described as small meat pizzas) and patlicanipide (ditto but with cheese on top) were cheap and delicious and eaten with tomato and onion salad.

A few weeks later, we went back to Kosebasi for Iftar and it was buzzing. For AED 109 per person, you could enjoy dates and figs followed by a variety of mezze and breads. The main course was grilled meats with salad with rice pudding and coffee to end. Good service, good food, good company.


Tango Vs Salsa

Friday, August 7, 2009
Tango is to salsa what a long term relationship is to a quick fling. Having danced salsa on and off for about three years, tango always seemed, dare I say it, a bit staid. However, with a misson to involve my new husband into the dancing scene, we found ourseleves, shakily, tangoing around a dance studio trying to be graceful. Emphasis on the word 'trying'.

What sold it to hubby, is that with tango, the man is ALWAYS in control. He leads, she follows. He decides the steps, she follows. He decides the speed (hopefully in time to the music), she follows. You get the picture. Men are in control. Actually, the same is for salsa, but if you are dancing with a guy who just dances away with no consideration for his partner, there are sneaky ways that you can put him in his place so to speak. This suits me. I'm yet to find that in tango, although I have had only one lesson.

What sold it for me, is that it's a great work out. It may not look as speedy as salsa but while you are whirling around gazing into each others eye (ok, we're not that good yet, but we will be) the leg muscles are really tested for balance and strength - the ladies even more so because they not only have to do the steps but also make it look good with pointed toes and stuff. It would be easier if I had legs as long as Giselle, but unfortunately not. What can I say - the vertically challenged must work harder!

Perhaps we weren't too smooth and perhaps our steps weren't as accurate as they should have been, but within the hour our teacher, to his credit, did manage to get us dancing the basic steps around the room to music with no major injury and that sold it for both of us. Looking forward to class two.

(For more information on tango classes in Dubai, visit http://www.elfiruletebnf.com/contacto_dubai.html)

My new sushi find.......

Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Having lived in Japan for 2 years back in 2000, I would like to be able to tell you that from day one, I was eating sashimi and sushi like a pro, elegeantly waving my chopsticks around and conversing in fluent Japanese with the chef. Unfortunately, the reality was somewhat different.

Somewhere in the back streets of down town Tokyo, I sat gingerly on the edge of my stool peering over at the plates of raw fish which slowly trundled past me on the conveyor belt. There was no way this stuff was passing over my lips. How did people eat this? It's RAW for god's sake! I tried to think of anything raw I had eaten in the past....strangely enough nothing came to mind unless you counted the raw jelly we used to scoff as kids. I eventually plucked up the courage to sample my first piece of Japanese cuisine (albeit with my fingers) and while not an immediate fan, I did develop a taste and possibly a habit over the next couple of years .

Which is why I'm so happy to have found a new Japanese restaurant right on my door step in Dubai Marina. You could easily pass 'Umi Sushi' if you didn’t know it was there. You have to walk past The Fish and Chip Room (resisting the "sod it, I'm getting a bag of chips with curry sauce" urge) and it's right next door. This quiet restaurant is not much to speak of at first glance with its uninspiring decor and simple layout. Once you get past the picture menu (tacky but it does actually do its job in this case) with just under 100 dishes, you can then get down to business. The 'edadame' (green beans) is served hot and salty and goes well with a plate of 'gyoza' (dumplings) for starters. The portion sizes are relatively large and the chicken with vegetable stirfy and noodles is a meal in itself. For those with smaller stomachs, stick to the sushi which is fresh and delicious. Keep it simple with 'ebi maki' (prawns in rice and seaweed) or order a 'matsu' - 13 pieces of sushi allowing you to try 7 different kinds for 93 dirhams. For those who like the full deal, a bento box is a must and will keep you going for quite some time.

A lively, buzzing, eaterie this place is not, however, if you're a die-hard Japanese food lover, add this one to your list to try. I will certainly be going back and if you decide to skip it, then so be it - more for me!

Thriving at 30.........


"Wait until you are 30, and then you will know about it", a friend once huffed at me as we were preparing to get ready for a night out.

At the time, I was a sprightly 25 year old who could barely even imagine being 30, never mind what it felt like. Her words came back to haunt me however as I struggled to get myself out of bed after a huge celebration of my own big 3-0. Not being able to cope with a hangover is just one of the downsides to 'supposed maturity'. Constant questioning of oneself and where one should be in the world in terms of status can also be rather annoying. I try to ignore it by lying on the sofa and filling my head with box sets. As you turn 30, all of a sudden life seems more "important". Bucket lists that you made with friends as a joke get routed out as you struggle to reassure yourself that yes, you are accomplished person who is leading an interesting life! Big ticket items, such as marriage and children come to the forefront and if I hear the word 'biological clock' one more time, I will not be responsible for my actions. Time and how you spend it (and in some cases, who you spend it with) becomes crucial. When you are 30, it's a huge thrill to be asked for ID. When you are 30, the anti-wrinkle cream section becomes incredibly interesting. When you are 30, the concept of a weekend night in is not so remote.
They say 30 is the new 20, and 40 is the new 30. I say, damn right. And to my friend, you were absolutely spot on. I certainly did know about it - but you know what? It's not so bad after all........








Malaysian Salsa Festival, July 09

Tuesday, July 28, 2009


I literally can't feel my legs. It's not surprising after 4 nights and 5 days of continous dancing. The Malaysian Dance Festival is the first holiday where I have actually lost weight. The festival is made up of different dance workshops, performances by professional artists and parties that go on into the early hours of the morning in a beautiful resort on the East coast of Malaysia. Sleep not included.




Our group, Mambo Clasico (http://www.facebook.com/MamboClasicoDubai?ref=ts) debuted with it's first international perfromance with 'Pepe's Mimes'. 10 people dancing complicated choreography "together" is no easy feat ('scuse the pun). After 11 months of practising, I think we pretty much nailed it. It was a huge moment both individually and as a group to walk off that stage knowing that we had completed one of our goals: to dance on an international stage. The hours of practice, the sore muscles, and the lack of social life all were forgotton in that moment.

Once we had performed, I could forget all the nerves and just enjoy the event. Mornings were spent by the pool, sleeping, sunbathing and playing pool volleyball and afternoons were spent in different workshops. One of my favourites was run by a Portugese couple - Vanda and Nuno. Incredibly talented and great teachers, their workshops were fun and easy to follow. Their performances were simply inspiring and amazing to watch.

As well as salsa workshops, you could also learn more about dancing on 2, shines, spins, tango, body movement and something I hadn't come across before 'Zouk'. Zouk is a dance similar to bachata. The steps are reasonably simple to follow. Watching the professionals do it, you will see a lot of head movement and a nod towards contemporary style. While I'm still a salsa lover at heart, it's a beautiful dance to watch and very intimate.

This was my second festival that I had attended and probably my favourite of the two. The beautiful setting created a relaxed atmosphere and with approximately 250 people, you were able to meet and get to know different dancers without feeling 'lost'. There was also lots of variety within the shows and workshops which has inspired me to try and convince my man to learn tango with me. Combining salsa and travelling is the ultimate; my only regret is that I didn't extend my stay in Malaysia to see more of the country.